Adventures by Disney - Day 5 - Drawn to Bohemia
October 22nd, 2006 - by Chris
Paris France. October 11, 2006. (Easily our busiest single day, the writing for this one never seemed to end. Sorry for the long posting time. –ed) We woke to a misty morning in Paris, and rather than go out to find breakfast we decide to have it brought up to our Westin room. The food was on a par with every other bit of room service I’ve ever had with one exception. We’ve traveled all the way to Paris for the best orange juice either of us has ever tasted, and not just a little bit better, this is like a different league. This is like fresh squeezed vs. Tang. This is orange juice that gets its own paragraph. I wouldn’t fly to Paris just for this, but still, quite good.
Our juice swallowed, we’re down to our Paris coach and off to our first stop, the Pompidou Center. Or rather the parking lot of the Centre Pompidou. It seems that motor coaches aren’t allowed near our real destination: Ile de la Cité, the home of Our Lady of Paris, known to us as the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris. On the way we got our first look at a standard morning’s traffic in Paris.
It would seem that there are no specific traffic laws here, only some rather vague suggestions. The chaos is amazing, but then you begin to see that they seem to have some set of inner rules that governs what car goes where next. I never did quite understand the rules, but everybody seems to get where they’re going with a minimum of sheet-metal damage.
The walk down to the cathedral was actually quite short. It was an extremely foggy morning, so the pictures are a bit gray, but even in the fog Paris is still a lovely city, with its cobbled streets and terrace lined buildings. We crossed Pont Neuf to Ile de la Cité.
Literally “New Bridgeâ€, Pont Neuf is actually the oldest bridge across the Seine. Its name refers to the fact that it was the first stone bridge in Paris, and was named New Bridge by the people when it was first built. No matter what its name, the views up and down the river from the bridge are enchanting. In this instance we’re looking up the river toward Ile Saint-Louis.

When we reached the cathedral we discovered that right out front is the official center of Paris. A small brass plaque of the Sun King (Louis XIV) marks the center of Paris, so when you’re on the road from Le Mans to Paris, and you see a sign that says Paris - 187 km, you know exactly where that 187 km ends: About 30 meters in front of Notre Dame de Paris. We spent a bit of time taking pictures and learning the history Notre Dame, and then we were taken around to the side of the cathedral and ushered through a tiny door and into a very steep stone circular stairway.
387 very warn steps later we had made it to the top of the Galerie des Chimières, which is the level that connects the two bell towers. Unlike most US cities, Paris is a city of Classical height. There are few buildings higher than 5 stories and even fewer higher than 9 or 10. The cathedral is one of those, rising about 16 stories above the river. The view is spectacular, and if you can stand the climb I highly suggest it.
The inside of the Cathedral is spectacular also, but not in the same way as Westminster. Notre Dame is fantastically beautiful, but lacks the insane number of historical references that Westminster can claim. For hundreds of years, the Kings of France were crowned in Reims, to the North East of Paris. It wasn’t until Napoleon was crowned Emperor of France that Notre Dame was used for a coronation.
From Notre Dame we crossed back over Pont Neuf, this time with the sky turning blue as the morning fog burned away. Just down the river, still on the Ille de la Cité is the Conciergerie, the last home and prison of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette.
Once we got back to our bus we headed north toward Montmartre, home of two fantastic churches, a winery, an artist’s colony, and one of the coolest neighborhoods in Europe. We parked at the bottom of the hill as there is just no way to get a bus up the narrow roads of Montmartre. So after a short walk up a little market street we were provided tickets up the funicular railway to the top of the hill. Once there we found ourselves in very cool little square that would be our base for the afternoon. We started off by wandering over thru the neighboring square full of artists. Some of the people in our tour got their portraits painted, others joined Beci and I in a search for food.

Crêpes are one of the classic street foods of Paris, and they’re simply brilliant. I can’t recommend them enough. And so I got a fromage et jambon crêpe (ham and cheese) and Beci got a sandwich (it was good, but she admitted later that my crêpe was better).
We then shared a chocolate crêpe with four of our fellow travelers, Jenni, Mickey, David, and Amber. We also learned to order Diet Coke. From this point forward calls of "coke-a-lite" could be heard at every meal, sometimes to the consternation of our French hosts who drink wine with meals, and Coke as little as possible.
After our improvised lunch Beci and I decided to go see the two churches. We started with the smaller and older of the two, Saint Pierre de Montmartre.
From a visual standpoint it was probably my favorite, with a slightly older heavier look to its construction, it looks like a place where important things occurred in the history of the Catholic church, and indeed they did. Saint Pierre is where the order of the Jesuits was founded.
The Basilica of the Sacré-CÅ“ur is literally right behind Saint Pierre. It is one of the most recently completed cathedrals in Europe (Barcelona has one still under construction) having been finished less than 100 years ago in 1914. Cameras and noise are prohibited in the Cathedral, so I have no pictures of the interior, but I assure you it’s worth the visit. The outside is quite distinctive, and reminds me of a cross between a Russian Orthodox church and a mosque.
We met our entire party back at the square. Several were just finishing up the tiring task of sitting for a portrait. Once the 16 of us were back together Alex and Roni lead us down the side of the hill to meet a member of la Comanderie du Clos MontMartre, the wine makers of Montmartre. A short walk from their hall we discovered a hidden gem of Paris. A vineyard hidden on the back of the hill. The wines of Montmartre are sold at a very high price, and the proceeds given to charity. I don’t drink wine at all, so I can’t tell you how the tasting went, but Beci seemed to think it was good, and nobody dropped from acute wine poisoning.
After we finished our wine tasting we headed back to the hotel. Montmartre was easily my favorite bit of Paris to this point, and whether you’re in Paris with Disney or on your own, I suggest spending a day up on Montmartre. The bohemian ambiance is something you can’t find anywhere else.
After a short nap we were back up and dressed in our Paris best for a night out at the best known tourist attraction in France. Our coach made quick work (OK, not so quick, but impressive still in a giant coach) of the traffic. After a quick stop to take some romantic pictures with the Eiffel Tower in the background we proceeded to the Tower for dinner. This was also the first time we saw any sort of an armed military, with a few smartly dressed French commandos walking around under the tower. After a few minutes wait we were ushered thru the standard Disney back door line passing about an hours worth of people who now wish they had traveled with Disney, but didn’t. At the top of our short elevator ride we made it to the first terrace level of the tower, at the 95 meter mark. Here we would have dinner at Altitude 95.
After dinner Beci (just slightly terrified of heights) agreed to go up to the very top. This is not a short building, and Beci on a small metal platform nearly 300 meters above the ground was something of a miracle. Indeed, until the Chrysler building and it’s radio tower was finished in the 30s the Eiffel tower was the tallest building in the world. Its still the second tallest building in all of France, and easily the tallest in Paris.
once we made it to the top (even for me the ride up the elevator was a bit alarming) we stepped out onto the walkway outside. With some coaxing Beci even made it to the edge for a picture or two, and then it was back down to terra firma.

Paris France. October 11, 2006. (Easily our busiest single day, the writing for this one never seemed to end. Sorry for the long posting time. –ed) We woke to a misty morning in Paris, and rather than go out to find breakfast we decide to have it brought up to our Westin room. < more... >
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Once we returned from our walk we all loaded into the coach again and drove off to a part of London known as Little Venice, because of all the canals crossing thru it. There we got to take part in another bit of hidden London, a canal boat ride to Camden Locks. In Little Venice we boarded a classic canal boat and cruised thru some of the lesser seen parts of London, past the London Zoo, and into Camden town.
From the Market, we got back on our coach, which had been magically transported to Camden, and rode off to the south bank of the Thames and Waterloo station. There we met our fourth (counting our feet). In France they call it the TGV. In the USA we know it as the Bullet Train. In the UK they simply call it the Chunnel Train to Paris. The train ride was quite comfortable and before you know it, you’re rolling into a new country, a new city, and a new part of your adventure.
Ah Paris, city of lights. This is where I post a picture of the Eifel Tower, or a lovely shot up the Champs-Élyees. Unfortunately it was seriously foggy on the evening of our arrival, so a picture of me in front of a Champs street sign is the best you’re going to get. With a free night in front of us Beci and I decided to walk from our Hotel up the Champs toward the Arc d’ Triumph. We ran into some of our travel mates at a bank machine (ATM good, cash exchange at the train station bad). We made it to the Disney Store, where we got some pictures of a few of the French plushies and their amazing hidden mickey chandelier and then headed back to the hotel.
If you’ve never been to the Champs, it’s quite impressive. I suppose, even if you have been there it’s quite impressive. You see it in movies, or on final day of the Tour de France, but it seems to be one of those things that doesn’t translate well on film. It’s impressively wide, long, sweeping, and tree lined. Add to that the amazing buildings on each side, the specialty shops, the park-like setting of the lower third, and you have what the French like to call La plus belle avenue du monde. And they’re not far wrong. The most beautiful avenue in the world.
Once across the bridge we walked east along what is known as Bankside, past the Globe Theatre. The Back in 1599 thru 1644 the Globe was the site of Shakespeare’s first run plays. It was destroyed in a fire once during that time, and rebuilt on the same spot. Eventually it was torn down by Puritans. The current theatre sits about 200 meters up river from the location of the original. The design follows as closely as possible that of the original.
After the wheel made its way around 360 vertical degrees we walked around to the back of its complex and boarded a Thames river cruise. The cruise headed down river from Parliament to the Tower of London. The river was quite low, the tide being out, but the river still being fresh water. When the tide comes in the fresh water down river is pushed back up the river to London, so London never sees salt water, though it is built only feet above the high tide line of the North Sea.
London, England. October 7, 2006 - What do Edward the Confessor, Geoffrey Chaucer, Queen Elizabeth, Isaac Newton, Charles Dickens, King George II, and Laurence Olivier have in common? They’re all buried in Westminster Abbey of course, and that’s where today’s tour started. But first we had a very nice breakfast at The Pearl within the grounds of the Chancery Court hotel, our home base in London. The inside of The Pearl is decorated with about a bazillion fresh water pearls, which I must admit is quite impressive.
Once we had finished off the Abbey we walked up to see the changing of the horse guard. From there we went up thru St. James Park to Buckingham Palace. This is more of Beci’s sort of place than mine. I can admire the architecture and the grounds, but the fact that kings and queens lived (and live) there doesn’t seem to do anything for me. It is a lovely little house though. Plenty of room for a big screen TV in there I assure you.
Well rested we headed out to Soho for dinner. We were taken to a very exclusive very private club (Soho house) where we had a great family style dinner right across from the Palace Theatre. Once dinner was done we crossed the street and went into the Theatre for our showing of Mary Poppins. The show was fantastic. It’s based on a combination of the books and the Disney movie, so you get a few extra scenes, and a bit of changes in place of some of the movie bits that would be difficult or impossible to enact in a theatre. It was a tremendous show, and we followed it up with a short tour back stage where we got to see how the sets are manipulated.
Out the gate, and right into the immigration line. If you’ve never been thru immigration, it’s the place where every country in the world does their best to convince you that “coming here was a big mistake, mateâ€. We, and the passengers from a few other early morning international arrivals, made the queue at about the same time. There are two lines. One for UK and EU passport holders.
One for the rest of us. Forty minutes later we had moved the requisite 20 yards (as the crow flies) and answered those two vital questions, “Why are you here? When are you leaving?†and moved on to baggage claim.
We got our bags and moved out of the reclaim area and immediately spotted the
The trip from the airport to our hotel was about an hour, but the driver did a good job of narrating our trip and giving us some light info on what we were seeing. He took past a variety of sights and did a genuinely fine job of getting to very sleep deprived travelers to our hotel in fine style.
Beci plugged in the voltage converter, plugged her anti-curling iron thingy (what do I know from women’s hair implements?) and almost immediately noted a burning electronics smell, and a lack of a power light. Disaster number one. We’re totally not sure what went wrong. We plugged in everything correctly, it just died, honest. So down to the concierge, who being a guy, had no idea where to get a hair iron thingy (my name for it). One of our Disney tour guides, Alexandra, came to the rescue and suggested the drug store (chemists) down the street. They not only had what Beci was looking for, they had the same brand in a Europe friendly model. Crisis averted (they always are).
We got back to the hotel in time for the welcome dinner where we had a quick welcome talk by our guides Alexandra and Roni, and a bit of a meet and greet with our fellow travelers. We then went to a wonderful dinner where we had a bit of local cockney entertainment known as the Pearly King and Pearly Queen. Dinner was a gigantic sampler of classic English fare, including fish and chips, meat pies, banger’s and mash, etc. Served along side of it in a Disney first for me, was Pepsi. I have the photo’s to prove it.